例えば、ひなびた山間の温泉宿で、冷凍物のマグロやカニ、出来の悪い懐石膳が並んだら、読者はどういう感想を抱くだろうか。地物の山菜、あるいはキノコ類、古くから伝わる郷土食を欲して訪れた筆者ならば、100％落胆する。
地方関係者の多くは、「はるばる遠方から来てくださったお客様に粗末な地元食など恥ずかしくて出せない」と口にする。だが、これがそもそもの間違いだと筆者は感じる。地のモノを食べたいから、遠方からお邪魔させていただいているのだ。
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